Waterproof makeup is a blessing and a curse. It stays put through swimming, sweating, crying at weddings, and everything in between—but when it comes time to remove it, that same staying power becomes a formidable challenge. If you have ever gone to bed with raccoon eyes despite your best cleansing efforts, or woken up with irritated skin from over-rubbing, this guide is for you.
Why Waterproof Makeup Requires Special Removal
Waterproof makeup is formulated with water-resistant polymers and waxes that form a film over the skin or lashes. This film repels water, which is why splashing your face with water alone will not budge waterproof mascara or long-wear foundation.
The key to removing waterproof makeup lies in chemistry: oil dissolves oil. Since waterproof formulas contain oil-based or waxy ingredients, you need an oil-based remover to break them down effectively. Water-based cleansers simply cannot penetrate the waterproof barrier.
Attempting to remove waterproof makeup without the right products often leads to:
- Excessive rubbing that damages the delicate eye area
- Pulling on lashes, potentially causing lash loss
- Irritation and redness from friction
- Residual makeup left in pores, leading to breakouts
- Smeared makeup that spreads rather than removes
đź’ˇ The Science
Waterproof makeup formulas typically contain ingredients like beeswax, silicones, and petroleum-derived polymers. These ingredients create a hydrophobic (water-repelling) barrier that requires oil-based products to dissolve.
Best Products for Waterproof Makeup Removal
Micellar Water
Micellar water is one of the gentlest and most effective options for removing waterproof makeup. The micelles—tiny oil molecules suspended in water—attract and lift away makeup without harsh rubbing. For best results with waterproof makeup, look for micellar waters specifically formulated for waterproof products. These typically contain a higher concentration of oil-based micelles.
How to use: Saturate a cotton pad with micellar water and hold it against your closed eye for fifteen to twenty seconds. This gives the micelles time to break down the waterproof formula. Then gently sweep the cotton pad downward and outward. Repeat with fresh pads until they come away clean.
Cleansing Oils
Cleansing oils are highly effective at dissolving waterproof makeup. When massaged onto dry skin, they break down even the most stubborn products. Adding water emulsifies the oil, turning it milky and allowing it to rinse clean without leaving residue.
Look for cleansing oils containing ingredients like jojoba oil, olive oil, or mineral oil. Avoid essential oils if you have sensitive skin, as these can cause irritation around the eyes.
Cleansing Balms
Cleansing balms work similarly to cleansing oils but start as a solid that melts upon contact with skin. They are particularly luxurious to use and often contain nourishing ingredients that condition the skin while cleansing.
Dedicated Eye Makeup Removers
Bi-phase eye makeup removers (the ones you shake before using) are specifically designed for stubborn eye makeup. The oil phase dissolves waterproof products while the water phase removes water-soluble residue. These are particularly gentle on the eye area and are an excellent choice if you wear heavy eye makeup daily.
âś… Key Takeaway
The product you choose matters less than your technique. Any oil-based remover will work—the key is allowing adequate contact time and avoiding excessive rubbing.
Step-by-Step Waterproof Makeup Removal
Step 1: Prepare Your Products
Gather your chosen oil-based remover, fresh cotton pads or rounds, and a clean, soft towel. If using micellar water, ensure you have plenty of cotton pads—removing waterproof makeup requires more than a quick swipe.
Step 2: Eyes First
Always start with eye makeup removal before cleansing the rest of your face. This prevents spreading mascara and liner across your cheeks during the cleansing process.
Soak a cotton pad thoroughly with your chosen remover—it should be dripping wet. Place the saturated pad over your closed eye and hold it there for fifteen to twenty seconds. Do not rub or press hard; simply let the product do its work.
After holding, gently sweep the cotton pad downward over your lashes. For mascara, you may need to gently wiggle the pad back and forth at the base of your lashes to loosen product buildup. Use a folded edge of the cotton pad to remove mascara from under-eye smudges.
Step 3: Lips
If you are wearing long-wear lipstick, treat it similarly to eye makeup. Hold a saturated cotton pad against your lips for ten seconds, then gently wipe away. For stubborn lip stains, apply a small amount of cleansing oil directly to your lips and massage in small circles before wiping.
Step 4: Full Face Cleanse
Once eye and lip makeup is removed, proceed with your regular cleansing routine. If you were wearing waterproof face makeup or heavy sunscreen, start with an oil-based first cleanse (micellar water, cleansing oil, or balm) followed by a water-based second cleanse.
Massage the oil-based cleanser over your entire face, focusing on areas where you applied primer, foundation, or sunscreen. Add water to emulsify if using oil or balm, then rinse thoroughly.
⚠️ Common Mistake
Never pull or tug at your eyelashes or the delicate skin around your eyes. If makeup is not coming off easily, add more product and more time—not more force. Repeated tugging can damage lashes and accelerate fine lines.
Step 5: Final Check
After cleansing, take a fresh cotton pad, dampen it with micellar water, and sweep it across your face. If it comes away with any colour or residue, repeat your cleansing steps. Only when the cotton pad is completely clean should you proceed with the rest of your skincare routine.
Special Considerations for Eye Makeup
Protecting Your Lashes
Your eyelashes are more fragile than you might think. Aggressive makeup removal is one of the leading causes of lash breakage and loss. To protect your lashes:
- Always use an oil-based remover specifically designed for the eye area
- Never rub back and forth aggressively
- Wipe in the direction of lash growth (downward and outward)
- Be especially gentle with lash extensions, if you have them
- Consider using a cotton swab for precise mascara removal at the lash line
Caring for the Eye Area
The skin around your eyes is the thinnest and most delicate on your face. It has fewer oil glands and is more prone to dryness and wrinkles. After removing eye makeup, apply an eye cream to replenish moisture and provide nourishment.
đź’Ž Pro Tip
Store your eye makeup remover in the refrigerator. The cool temperature adds a soothing, depuffing effect when you apply it to tired eyes at the end of the day.
DIY Alternatives
If you find yourself without a dedicated makeup remover, these household items can work in a pinch:
- Coconut oil: Melts waterproof makeup effectively, but may cause breakouts for some people
- Olive oil: A gentle, nourishing option that most people tolerate well
- Petroleum jelly: Dissolves makeup thoroughly, though it requires more effort to rinse off
While these alternatives work, they are not ideal for daily use. Formulated makeup removers are specifically designed to remove completely without leaving residue or clogging pores.
When to Consider Switching Products
While waterproof makeup has its place, consider whether you truly need it for daily wear. Non-waterproof formulas are:
- Easier on your skin and lashes
- Simpler and faster to remove
- Less likely to cause long-term damage from removal friction
Reserve waterproof formulas for occasions when you genuinely need them: swimming, special events, or days when you know you might cry. For everyday wear, tubing mascaras and long-wear (but not waterproof) formulas offer a good balance of staying power and easy removal.
Conclusion
Removing waterproof makeup does not have to be a nightly battle. With the right products and proper technique, you can dissolve even the most stubborn formulas without damaging your skin or lashes. The key is patience: give your oil-based remover time to work, avoid rubbing, and always follow with a thorough cleanse to ensure no residue remains.
Your skin and lashes will thank you for the gentle approach. Invest in a quality oil-based remover, master the hold-and-sweep technique, and say goodbye to raccoon eyes forever.